Grooming You to Groom Your Pet

I go to the hair salon every six weeks for a two-hour long process of coloring and cutting that keeps me looking like the truly awesome person that I am.  I don't just mention this because I am vain, but because I'm honest about the ridiculous amount of upkeep some of us prescribe for ourselves.  It costs much less time and money to do the same for our pets, so please take the time regularly bathe and groom them.

Ninja Turtle Poodle!  (Cracked.com)

For the small breed dog, many pet stores and animal-specific grooming parlors offer such services for your friend.  At All Pet Supplies, they charge around $25-35 for breed-specific "hairdo" that may so desire.  With this fee, they bathe, brush and cut your pet to perfection.  Many grooming places offer a simple wash, dry and toenail cut for a minimal fee, too.

For those of us who don't have the funds for this, I would like to recommend a few grooming tools for different coats that will make the experience worthwhile for you and Rover (or cat-Rover):

Valuepetsupplies.com

1.  Short-haired dogs:  There is a brush called a Zoom Groom that has just about changed my life.  It's a small rubber brush that can be used on wet or dry fur.  What it does is pull on all of the loose hair that are no longer connected to the skin.  These are all of the obnoxious hairs that will endlessly litter your living room.  Using this brush once or twice a week outside on Frankie has reduced his shedding more than any food or shampoo could ever do.

Leerburg.com

2.  Long-haired dogs:  Any simple "raking" comb works wonders.  Most long-haired dogs (and even water-intended dogs like Labradors) have a thick, woolly undercoat that makes their appearance bushy and unkempt.  This rake is about the only thing that will penetrate the undercoat and pull out the loose hairs while untangling the rest of the coat.  Aces.

3.  Cats:  Ollie is medium-haired, but I still use the rubber brush on her.  Cat generally hate to be brushed, but rubber spines massage her while the process is going on, so she usually ends up purring and rolling over.  I also use a fine-toothed comb (great for untangling wiry-coated dogs like Jack Russells) to pull out tangles in her armpits and tail. 


When you bathe them, use a shampoo (I love Pet Head) that contains oatmeal to sooth their skin and keep it from drying out.  One the includes lanolin, too, helps with a shiny coat.  For white dogs, there are also brightening shampoos that help bring out the natural color and keep the white from yellowing too quickly.  Though there are many to choose from, I don't often waste my time using a conditioner while they are still in the tub.  Instead, I buy a detangling spray and spritz while brushing. 

Unless you have particularly messy dogs, you shouldn't bathe them more then two or three times a month.  Their ph-Balance is different than humans, so it takes a lot longer for the oils to build back up in the skin.  If you bathe too often, you will end up with a dried out, itchy, miserable mutt.  

He thought he was completely hidden...

As for nail trimming?  I won't tell you it's easy because Frankie acts like we are going to execute him every time the clippers come out, but it is possible.  Some dogs will lie calmly and let you go at it, but even then, you need to know what you are doing.  No matter how long their nails are, the nerve (or quik) grows with it.  Therefore, cutting them too short may result in a a gusher.  For animals with clear nails, you can see the quik, so don't cut past it.  For animals with black nails, use a careful precision and a prayer.  

Follow these guidelines, use the tools and enjoy your pet!

Where My Toys At?

Because our four-legged friends are gives us unlimited amounts of entertainment, I think it's only fair that we give back a little.  The way to go?  Toys.  Companionship and food are followed closely by toys in a dog's hierarchy of life fulfillment.

They don't have to be expensive either.











Cats love things they can play inside of and dogs love things they snuggle, kill or both.  It's pretty simple.  

This grocery bag has two functions.

For cats, I would recommend scratching toys (if they are not de-clawed).  Cat have an innate physiological need to scratch the shit out of stuff.  It satisfies them like any normal craving we would have for something (eating, playing games, sky-diving).  If you don't give them the toy option, it's your own fault if they destroy your sofa.  No amount of discipline will ever, EVER keep your cat from scratching.  Scratching toys can be anything from a post to small mice or balls made of sisal (a bendable, durable fiber much like hemp).

Playful dogs will play with just about anything with which that you engage them.  Stuffed animals, ropes, balls, etc.  If you are looking for something that a dog can play with on his own (because sometimes we need our alone time), choose a toy that you can stuff treats in.  You can even use low sodium peanut butter on any toy to get them interested.
 


I will leave you with a few specific suggestions for dog and cat toys.  I've bought hundreds of dollars worth, so I consider myself an expert in this particular field.

1. The Kong - This large rubber funnel-type toy is virtually indestructible.  Notice I say "virtually" (as most toy tags will boast) because no toy will ever last forever.  This toy is great for dog or cats.  You can put a treat or peanut butter in the center to keep them interested, and the flexible rubber massages their gums (good for hygiene and teething) while they chew.
2. Dr. Noys Stuffing-Free Toys - This product is made by Kong and comes in a variety of sizes and animals.  It's obviously great because there is no stuffing inside.  When they eventually tear it apart, guess what?  Nothing comes out.  That is, except for the squeaker.  This is extremely convenient for obvious reasons, but it also comes with extra squeakers to put in the toy after the previous one has died.
3. Mylar Mice or Balls - This is my favorite cat toy in the world.  They are made of stiff mylar (metalized nylon - think of film) which makes an intriguing "crinkle" sounds when touched.  It also bright and very light-reflective.  Ollie loses every toy she ever gets, so it's also helpful that these mice are never over a buck a piece.  Perfect.

Pet toys are expensive.  I mean ridiculous.  When you're looking, find something that seems durable and engaging.  I would never spend fifteen bucks on a toy they would tear apart in five minutes.  And, they just won't let you return half-eaten stuffed sheep.  Understand that they will like just about anything you bring home.  Just use your noggin on this one!

Keep Your Pet Safe From Sickness!

I've been sick with a cold for almost two weeks now, so I have decided to devote this post to common dog and cat illness and what can be done about them.  
 

Too cute to die.

The four most likely causes for pet health issues are bacterial, viral, parasitic and blood.  Because animals do not get the same health insurance some of us are lucky enough to have, we don't take them to the vet quite as often as we maybe should.  I know I don't; however, there are some illnesses that should necessitate an immediate visit to the pet doctor.

1. Distemper - This is a virus that occurs in both dogs and cats.  The symptoms include fever, watery eyes, diarrhea, loss of appetite and difficulty in breathing.  It is a highly contagious disease that is often fatal.  If it progresses, damage to the brain and central nervous system can occur.  It's a lot like the measles.  There is no cure for distemper, but the vaccine is included in nearly every booster series your puppy would receive.
2. Mange - This skin disease comes in two forms:  demodectic and sarcoptic.  Symptoms include loss of hair and excessive scratching.  The first is caused by something called a demodex mite and is not contagious.  It is also hereditary (which increases chance of a mange relapse).  It is very common and very treatable.  Though the treatment is available through a prescription, you can also use Ivermectin (a large animal product that you can use in lower dosages from household pets) in conjunction with an oatmeal shampoo to fix the problem.  Sarcoptic mange is similar to demodectic except that it is highly contagious and not hereditary.  The treatment is the same, though.  Because both are caused by mites, your vet could easily tell you which type of mange your four-legged friend has been exposed too.
3. Bordetella - Also known as "kennel cough", this is a viral infection that is very common in dogs that have visited kennels for extended periods of time.  It's a lot like bronchitis, and the common symptoms include a hacking cough and lethargy.  There are more serious variations of this infection (much like our own cold or flu) but it's very treatable with antibiotics.  There is also a handy vaccination for it.

These are more common issues that I have personally had to deal with in my pet-owning career.  Visit this website to learn more about common pet diseases, symptoms and treatments. 


About Vaccinations
I believe you should absolutely vaccinate your pet for any and all diseases that are available.  Even if they are no longer a puppy, but still a new member of the family, a series of booster shots is essential.  If the price of a vet visit is too expensive for you, I would strongly suggest that you visit All Pet Supplies where they can sell you the same vaccines that your vet can administer.  Because these shots only to puncture the nape of the neck, they are extremely simple to "do-it-yourself".  Plus, they are only about six or seven dollars each compared to a vet's administering fees.  



You'll save some serious money this way.  Don't forget, though, that visiting your vet is still something all pet owners should do from time to time in order to keep a happy, healthy animal going strong for many years.  Hope this helps!

Fleas and Ticks

I love parasitic creatures just as much as the next person, but sometimes they just get out of control.  This particular season, they're awful.  Somehow, though, I feel like I say that every year...  Well, this time they are just an abomination.  September through November is typically the worst time for these little critters, so don't feel ashamed if you haven't completely eradicated them from your household.  I spend quite a bit of cash on flea medication, and Frankie and Ollie seem just as itchy as ever.  Hopefully with some helpful advice, you will be able to battle beside me on the forefront of this pestilence war.

Buzzle.com

Most people know if they have a flea problem, but here are some giveaways for those that are unsure:

• Scratching or generally uncomfortable movement (re-situating themselves constantly)
• Black or brown "dirt" on their fur--even if you don't see actual fleas, their poop is a clear indication that they are still hiding somewhere
• Check their armpits and private area--they will be where there is less hair 

Got 'em?  As long as they aren't jumping on you, the problem may be easily curable.  My highest suggestion is ordering a spot-on treatment such as Frontline.  It may seem expensive, but the three-month supply will be worth it to everyone.  You can usually find is cheapest on PedMeds (and you can buy it bulk which is cheaper still).  I also recommend using more than one flea medicine at a time, but no more than two.  As a supplement, I also use a topical spray once every two weeks.

A little bit about spot-on treatments.  I truly believe they are the best avenue in flea killing, but it's also important to know how it works.  "When you apply [a spot-on treatment], fipronil, the active ingredient, is stored in the oil glands under your pet's skin. It is then distributed continuously to the skin and hair of your pet through the hair follicles"  (Frontline Official Webpage).  Because that it relies on the oil in your pet's skin, you must never bath him two days before or after applying the product.  Use a soap-free shampoo, as this will keep the skin from drying out too much.  It also helps to feed them food high in fatty acids (remember that post?) to keep their coat slick and their skin moisturized.  If you don't follow the directions carefully, it may not work at all.  Here's a great page from Frontline's website that show exactly how to apply it or any other spot-on. 

I'll come out when all of the fleas are gone from the world.

 If your problem is completely out of control, you have to attack from all sides.  If you follow these procedures as often as necessary, there should be fleas no more within a few months:

1. Treat your yard.  I would suggest granules, and sprinkling them all around the edge of your house, your property line and every where in between.  It's also a good idea to do this before it rains so you won't have to water it yourself.
2. Treat your house.  Use a fogger or heavy-duty upholstery spray.  Spray all furniture, carpet and baseboards of your walls.  Make sure you vacuum before and after this.  Wash all of you and your pet's bedding, too.
3. Treat your animals.  Use a spot-on treatment as described above.  Make sure your pet is treated throughout all of this process or they will just jump on him rather than die in the pit of flea-death.

As you may notice, it gets fairly pricey the more situation gets out of control.  Preventative measure will always save you money in the long run, so maybe you will be more understanding the next time the vet tries to talk you into flea medication.

The No-Post Post

I obviously do not intend for this to be counted as a post, but I'm a big fan of pointing out my own errors before others do.  I didn't make a post this week.  Nope.  

Instead, I've been in the awful transition that is called a "career change".  I recently accepted a position at Horace Mann Elementary School as a CSS Aide (paraprofessional/teacher's aide for autistic children), so I am leaving the wonderful world of answering phones and performing thankless cleaning tasks to pursue a more meaningful vocation.  Because of my boss's total lack of... well, anything, I have been put in complete control of finding my replacement.  

So, for the mere $7.25 I make an hour, I have been sifting through 50+ applications in hopes of finding a replication of myself.  I have conducted one interview and have three more on Friday.  Did I mention that I have never done this?  Did I mention minimum wage?  Supplement that with wading through the molasses of bullshit that is Springfield Public School's Human Resources department, and you have some semblance of what my week has been like.  

Sorry for the lack of post, but here's a fun little YouTube of a dog sleep-running into a wall.  That's pet-related, right?

Frankie Says Relax

Does this dog seem aggressive to you?  I know it's hard to believe, but this lovable, intelligent mutt is a bit edgy around strangers and kids.  Now, it's not his fault; however, that doesn't mean I wouldn't be having a difficult moral decision to make if he ever attacked a person.  In order to keep Frankie's minor aggression problems under control, I keep him away from situations that would scare or provoke him.

It is important to understand that even if you believe that your dog is angelic in nature, it doesn't mean he will act the same way around you that he will in all circumstances.  There is no perfectly well-behaved dog.  Here are a few things to know when introducing your dog to a newcomer:

• Always keep him on a leash -- Frankie uses a prong collar.  Though this contraption looks scary and inhumane, it is actually a very effective tool (when fitted the correct way) that is much safer and more comfortable than a choke chain.
• Never pet your dog when he is growling or seems unsure -- It is a common misconception that this will calm him down.  In fact, you are confirming to him that his behavior is completely acceptable.
• Allow him to sniff the person's hand -- If your dog can recognize the scent from you having had contact with the person (a handshake maybe), then is he more apt to feel calmer since his owner has no qualms with the stranger. 
• Meet on neutral ground -- When you are outside in the yard rather than in your house, your dog feels less obligated to protect you or your territory.
• If none of this works, walk away -- Sometimes your dog just won't get the hang of a new person right away.  In this case, it's best to not stress him out and try another time. 

I hope this helps a little.  I know it can be frustrating when you don't own a dog that knows no stranger, but it can be reassuring too.  These types of dogs offer great protection, and it's always possible to help them warm up to strangers.  It's all about how you raise them.


I'd say these people did it right:

Your dog could be eating pure crap--maybe literal crap.

How fats iz I?

Unlike people,  dogs and cats tend to eat the same meal day after day.  And, they're fine with that.  Their stomachs have evolved in such a way that a deviation from this standard diet is likely to cause problems in their lifetime.  I know we feed our animals table scraps from time to time, but try to make this a rare occasion.  They may seem excited at the time, but you'll be paying for it or cleaning up after it later.  Because our dogs and cats are eating the same meal every day, I think it's extremely important to examine what is in the kibble we are feeding them.

Carrots are okay, though.

First, there are a few foods that you should never give to your dog.  Seriously, it can kill them.   


Now, I will just give you the basics on what ingredients NOT to feed your pets.  With even this small bit of knowledge, I guarantee you will be more likely to look at the back of the bag just to peek at what kind of garbage you might have been feeding your dog without even knowing.

Science Diet is a food that I wouldn't be caught dead feeding my pets, so it makes a great example.  Here are the first four ingredients (note that all ingredients in all food are ordered by the amount used in them):

1.  Corn Meal  -  Just like people, animals cannot properly digest corn.  This acts as a "filler" which wouldn't be so reprehensible if it wasn't the FIRST FREAKING INGREDIENT.  Fillers have no nutritional value whatsoever and make your dog or cat go to the bathroom about double the amount they normally would since they simply run straight through their system (because of that whole "unable to digest" factor).
    
2. Chicken By-product Meal (a Source Of Natural Chondroitin Sulfate And Glucosamine) - By-product is a nice way of saying "the parts of animals that wouldn't be considered meat by any smart consumer" -- Yeah... Heads, feathers, entrails, lungs and the like.  Yum.
    
3. Animal Fat (preserved With Mixed Tocopherols And Citric Acid) - This would be great for disease prevention if it weren't so obviously processed from the above ingredient - refined fats of any kind negate their health value.
    
4. Soybean Mill Run - This is also known as "floor sweepings" in the pet industry -- it makes the food palpable (form into the kibbles we see), but God knows what's in it,

The additional ingredients aren't so bad, but why add ingredients that are "a source" (note: not a good source) of glucosamine and chondroitin  when you could just actually add glucosamine and chondroitin.  I mean, that may be a better choice..

If you want a good food, look for ingredients (the wording is important) like these:

• Chicken/lamb/duck/turkey/beef meal (no by-product)
• Flax oil (not just flaxseed)
• Rice/oats/barley/potatoes (not corn, gluten or soy) 

I feed Frankie and Ollie Nutro dog food because it has straight-up meat, no fillers and a lot of oils for their skin and coat.

I know this information can be a bit tedious, but with this small bit of education, you are a little more equipped (or at least conscious) of what you are pouring into that bowl every day.  If you follow this advice, your pets will seem happier, healthier and will be able to love you for a much longer time.