Re-Write of Opinion Paper

HED: Grab Bag Classrooms

DEK: How Special Education Isn’t Working

BYLINE: Emily Brammer

WORD COUNT: 586

COPY: I am one of three C.S.S. (autism spectrum) aides at an elementary school. We have eight kids that have little to nothing in common, dubbing us a “grab bag” classroom. This means that the kids don’t match educationally, emotionally, mentally, physically, physiologically, intellectually or socially.

This is a story about Troy. He’s one of my special friends, a first-grader that fits into the three core symptoms of autism (Communication, Sensory and Social skills), so he belongs in our classroom. He is six years old and is technically in first grade; however, he can do math at a second to third grade level and read better than most fourth graders. He has excellent communication and written skills and will remember anything he ever hears from anyone. He is autistic, so a lot of his time is spent in an imaginary world made up of Cartoon Network characters. With the gentle coercion of his teachers, Troy can work at any pace you set him to. He’s probably more intellectually brilliant than all of the kids at my school combined, but no one besides his dad and his teachers may ever figure this out. I wonder why.

The “lowest” kid in our class can barely feed himself, the “highest” kid is Troy, and all of the other rugrats vary heavily between throwing violent temper tantrums and eating anything that they can hold. If a child falls into just two of the various areas of CSS or the autism spectrum, they are dropped into our room. Via the “No Child Left Behind” abomination and the IDEA (Individuals with Disabilities Education Act), each child must be given individual education programs (IEPs) in the least restrictive environment possible.

Wait. Four teachers and eight kids. That should work, right? In a big, beautiful theoretical world, it would. We would write yearly goals and curricula for each kid, adjust them accordingly throughout the months and shuffle the darlings off to regular education next fall because of their astounding improvements. Except, in this world I spent today keeping the two six-year-olds from hurting each other or themselves because I can’t understand that their far-off mumbling means that they’re not in the mood to learn. And, because we are the teachers that refuse to give become babysitters, we hide the movies and struggle day in and out with these sweet little devils. If all Jack learns is to how to wait in line for his lunch—success. Greg can finally tell me when he needs to pee? Score. Take note: we are not holding them to the low standards that Bush wanted us to so that we could shuttle these kids to the next grade. Any small advancement will exponentially improve the quality of their lives.

But, what happened to Troy? During the skirmish of our guerilla teaching, he sucked further into his imaginative mind. We left him alone because we never had any behavioral problems with him. What did he learn today? It seems ridiculous to claim that only Troy belongs in our classroom (as it was intended), but he’s the only one who truly fits the bill. All of these children deserve an education, but none of them belong in a classroom together. And, in this scenario, where the placement of children is based on equality laws and a system of diagnostics that doesn’t different behaviors within a single disability, the child with the largest capacity to learn and be integrated into regular education is the child that will—thanks, Bush—be left behind.

The End of the Road

Thanks to everyone who has paid attention to my blog this semester.  I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it.  Animals are a serious passion of mine, and although I don't intend to turn it into a career, the advice I give is always from my heart.  For this last blog, I just want to recapitulate some of the ideas I've presented in early weeks.

Thanks for getting to know us!

Food
I've touched on this topic a few times because it is, by far, the best way to lengthen the life of your dog or cat (or rat or ferret..  anything, really).  Stay away from the bad stuff. Period.  This includes, but is not limited to:

• Pet food with byproducts of any kind of meat - This stuff is usually made up of eyeballs, ears, beaks, feathers, or anything else those people can find on the floor and grind up.
  
• Corn - animals cannot digest this!
• Table scraps - the fat content alone of some of the stuff we eat is enough to make their bathroom habits repugnant.  They will also gain some serious weight.
• Chocolate - Dogs are straight-up allergic to it, and it could kill them. 

Grooming
There are several local grooming parlors that are great places to take your pet such as All Pet Supplies, but if you don't have the funds, you are stuck doing it at home.  Here are some helpful ideas if it comes down to this:

• Shampoos - Use something that contains proteins or oatmeal.  This will soothe their skin and make it less itchy.  You only need to wash your dog a couple of times a month (unless they are very messy), because the PH-Balance of their skin is different their humans.  If you use a soothing, soap-less shampoo, you will drastically cut down on the dryness of their skin after a bath.
• Grooming Tools - Depending on the dog or cat, you should use different tools.  Long-hair animals require a rake or wide-toothed comb and short-haired animals need a slicker or rubber brush to pull out the dead hair.  Whatever you use, it's always a good idea to use a spray conditioner to help loosen the tangles before you brush.
• Nails - In some cases, you may need to take your pet to the vet to get his nails clipped.  Some dogs and cats are just too aggressive or skittish to do it at home.  If you want to conquer this task, here is a helpful website to lead you through the process.

Toys
I will reiterate that items you find at home or at second-hand stores make nifty toys for your pets, but you also need to make sure that they are save.  For stuffed animals, make sure there are no button eyes or easy-to-tear seams.  For other toys, just make sure there are no small parts that your pet may pull off and choke on.  Here are some general ideas for good toys.

• Rubber Toys - Especially those that are hollow, rubber toys make a great chewing device for your dog.  It massages and cleans their gums in the process, too!  If they are hollow, you can put treats or peanut butter in them to entice more chewing.

• Mylar Toys - These are excellent toys for cats.  Not only are they inexpensive, but they bring out a lot of inherent hunting abilities in cats.  Because they are made out of mylar, they make an enticing crinkling sound when thrown or batted at, and they reflect the lights around them to keep the cat's interest.

For me, these are the three biggies.  If you can make your pet happy in these areas, you are sure to succeed as a pet owner.  I'm going to go play with Frankie and Ollie now, so I'll see you guys later!

I hope everyone had an excellent Thanksgiving!  I got sick, again, of course, but not until the day after.  Luckily, I still had working taste buds on Thursday to enjoy my mom's homemade miracles of food.  On the topic of Thanksgiving and this holiday season in general, I have a few helpful tips to allow your pets just as much enjoyment out of this festive season. 

Wake me when it's Christmas.

It's okay to allow your pets scraps from the table now and then, but don't ever give them any sort of poultry bones.  These particular bones tend to splinter, which means the pieces could either tear up their throat and stomach or even cause them to choke.  No good!  I keep Frankie away from all bones because, no matter what kind, they wreck havoc on his digestive system.  Nuff said.


It's true that chocolate is bad for dogs, but don't freak out if they sneak into some of your Christmas candy.  Baker's chocolate (the more cocoa, the worse) is what can poison them most easily.  Most of your over-the-counter baked goods and wrapped candies are made with milk or white chocolate.  This can still lead to toxic poisoning, though, if they ingest too much!  This is a great interactive chart to determine the amount of toxicity your pet may have come in contact with after indulging.

Taken from veterinarypartner.com, this is another handy chart so you can predetermine what may harm your pet.

Number of OUNCES of CHOCOLATE a Pet Would Need to Ingest for TOXICITY   Weight of Pet in Pounds 5 10 15 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 Milk Chocolate (ounces) 2 4 6 8.2 10.2 12.3 16.4 20.5 24.5 28.6 32.7 36.8 41 Dark Chocolate (ounces) 0.7 1.4 2.1 2.8 3.5 4.2 5.5 6.9 8.3 9.7 11 12.5 13.8 Baking Chocolate (ounces) 0.23 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.2 1.4 1.9 2.3 2.8 3.2 3.7 4.1 4.6

There is also a magical alternative to chocolate called "carob", which is what most Christmas pet treats are made from.  Your dog won't know the difference, and you will have fun picking out different varieties!  Places such as Three Dog Bakery and All Pet Supplies offer many different festive treats you can stuff in their stockings.  Your pet do have their own stockings, don't they?

If you're like me and don't feed your pets table scraps (okay, maybe some occasional popcorn and extra chicken, but that's it!), there is a wonderful wet food that I can't recommend enough.  It's made by the company Merrick, and they supply both dogs and cats with dozens of full-course meals within a single can.  I only feed my pets wet food once a week as a treat, but during the holidays, they get an extra helping of Thanksgiving dinner.

 Anyway, I hope you and your pet enjoy this holiday season just as much as you!  Mine will!






 

Grooming You to Groom Your Pet

I go to the hair salon every six weeks for a two-hour long process of coloring and cutting that keeps me looking like the truly awesome person that I am.  I don't just mention this because I am vain, but because I'm honest about the ridiculous amount of upkeep some of us prescribe for ourselves.  It costs much less time and money to do the same for our pets, so please take the time regularly bathe and groom them.

Ninja Turtle Poodle!  (Cracked.com)

For the small breed dog, many pet stores and animal-specific grooming parlors offer such services for your friend.  At All Pet Supplies, they charge around $25-35 for breed-specific "hairdo" that may so desire.  With this fee, they bathe, brush and cut your pet to perfection.  Many grooming places offer a simple wash, dry and toenail cut for a minimal fee, too.

For those of us who don't have the funds for this, I would like to recommend a few grooming tools for different coats that will make the experience worthwhile for you and Rover (or cat-Rover):

Valuepetsupplies.com

1.  Short-haired dogs:  There is a brush called a Zoom Groom that has just about changed my life.  It's a small rubber brush that can be used on wet or dry fur.  What it does is pull on all of the loose hair that are no longer connected to the skin.  These are all of the obnoxious hairs that will endlessly litter your living room.  Using this brush once or twice a week outside on Frankie has reduced his shedding more than any food or shampoo could ever do.

Leerburg.com

2.  Long-haired dogs:  Any simple "raking" comb works wonders.  Most long-haired dogs (and even water-intended dogs like Labradors) have a thick, woolly undercoat that makes their appearance bushy and unkempt.  This rake is about the only thing that will penetrate the undercoat and pull out the loose hairs while untangling the rest of the coat.  Aces.

3.  Cats:  Ollie is medium-haired, but I still use the rubber brush on her.  Cat generally hate to be brushed, but rubber spines massage her while the process is going on, so she usually ends up purring and rolling over.  I also use a fine-toothed comb (great for untangling wiry-coated dogs like Jack Russells) to pull out tangles in her armpits and tail. 


When you bathe them, use a shampoo (I love Pet Head) that contains oatmeal to sooth their skin and keep it from drying out.  One the includes lanolin, too, helps with a shiny coat.  For white dogs, there are also brightening shampoos that help bring out the natural color and keep the white from yellowing too quickly.  Though there are many to choose from, I don't often waste my time using a conditioner while they are still in the tub.  Instead, I buy a detangling spray and spritz while brushing. 

Unless you have particularly messy dogs, you shouldn't bathe them more then two or three times a month.  Their ph-Balance is different than humans, so it takes a lot longer for the oils to build back up in the skin.  If you bathe too often, you will end up with a dried out, itchy, miserable mutt.  

He thought he was completely hidden...

As for nail trimming?  I won't tell you it's easy because Frankie acts like we are going to execute him every time the clippers come out, but it is possible.  Some dogs will lie calmly and let you go at it, but even then, you need to know what you are doing.  No matter how long their nails are, the nerve (or quik) grows with it.  Therefore, cutting them too short may result in a a gusher.  For animals with clear nails, you can see the quik, so don't cut past it.  For animals with black nails, use a careful precision and a prayer.  

Follow these guidelines, use the tools and enjoy your pet!

Where My Toys At?

Because our four-legged friends are gives us unlimited amounts of entertainment, I think it's only fair that we give back a little.  The way to go?  Toys.  Companionship and food are followed closely by toys in a dog's hierarchy of life fulfillment.

They don't have to be expensive either.











Cats love things they can play inside of and dogs love things they snuggle, kill or both.  It's pretty simple.  

This grocery bag has two functions.

For cats, I would recommend scratching toys (if they are not de-clawed).  Cat have an innate physiological need to scratch the shit out of stuff.  It satisfies them like any normal craving we would have for something (eating, playing games, sky-diving).  If you don't give them the toy option, it's your own fault if they destroy your sofa.  No amount of discipline will ever, EVER keep your cat from scratching.  Scratching toys can be anything from a post to small mice or balls made of sisal (a bendable, durable fiber much like hemp).

Playful dogs will play with just about anything with which that you engage them.  Stuffed animals, ropes, balls, etc.  If you are looking for something that a dog can play with on his own (because sometimes we need our alone time), choose a toy that you can stuff treats in.  You can even use low sodium peanut butter on any toy to get them interested.
 


I will leave you with a few specific suggestions for dog and cat toys.  I've bought hundreds of dollars worth, so I consider myself an expert in this particular field.

1. The Kong - This large rubber funnel-type toy is virtually indestructible.  Notice I say "virtually" (as most toy tags will boast) because no toy will ever last forever.  This toy is great for dog or cats.  You can put a treat or peanut butter in the center to keep them interested, and the flexible rubber massages their gums (good for hygiene and teething) while they chew.
2. Dr. Noys Stuffing-Free Toys - This product is made by Kong and comes in a variety of sizes and animals.  It's obviously great because there is no stuffing inside.  When they eventually tear it apart, guess what?  Nothing comes out.  That is, except for the squeaker.  This is extremely convenient for obvious reasons, but it also comes with extra squeakers to put in the toy after the previous one has died.
3. Mylar Mice or Balls - This is my favorite cat toy in the world.  They are made of stiff mylar (metalized nylon - think of film) which makes an intriguing "crinkle" sounds when touched.  It also bright and very light-reflective.  Ollie loses every toy she ever gets, so it's also helpful that these mice are never over a buck a piece.  Perfect.

Pet toys are expensive.  I mean ridiculous.  When you're looking, find something that seems durable and engaging.  I would never spend fifteen bucks on a toy they would tear apart in five minutes.  And, they just won't let you return half-eaten stuffed sheep.  Understand that they will like just about anything you bring home.  Just use your noggin on this one!

Keep Your Pet Safe From Sickness!

I've been sick with a cold for almost two weeks now, so I have decided to devote this post to common dog and cat illness and what can be done about them.  
 

Too cute to die.

The four most likely causes for pet health issues are bacterial, viral, parasitic and blood.  Because animals do not get the same health insurance some of us are lucky enough to have, we don't take them to the vet quite as often as we maybe should.  I know I don't; however, there are some illnesses that should necessitate an immediate visit to the pet doctor.

1. Distemper - This is a virus that occurs in both dogs and cats.  The symptoms include fever, watery eyes, diarrhea, loss of appetite and difficulty in breathing.  It is a highly contagious disease that is often fatal.  If it progresses, damage to the brain and central nervous system can occur.  It's a lot like the measles.  There is no cure for distemper, but the vaccine is included in nearly every booster series your puppy would receive.
2. Mange - This skin disease comes in two forms:  demodectic and sarcoptic.  Symptoms include loss of hair and excessive scratching.  The first is caused by something called a demodex mite and is not contagious.  It is also hereditary (which increases chance of a mange relapse).  It is very common and very treatable.  Though the treatment is available through a prescription, you can also use Ivermectin (a large animal product that you can use in lower dosages from household pets) in conjunction with an oatmeal shampoo to fix the problem.  Sarcoptic mange is similar to demodectic except that it is highly contagious and not hereditary.  The treatment is the same, though.  Because both are caused by mites, your vet could easily tell you which type of mange your four-legged friend has been exposed too.
3. Bordetella - Also known as "kennel cough", this is a viral infection that is very common in dogs that have visited kennels for extended periods of time.  It's a lot like bronchitis, and the common symptoms include a hacking cough and lethargy.  There are more serious variations of this infection (much like our own cold or flu) but it's very treatable with antibiotics.  There is also a handy vaccination for it.

These are more common issues that I have personally had to deal with in my pet-owning career.  Visit this website to learn more about common pet diseases, symptoms and treatments. 


About Vaccinations
I believe you should absolutely vaccinate your pet for any and all diseases that are available.  Even if they are no longer a puppy, but still a new member of the family, a series of booster shots is essential.  If the price of a vet visit is too expensive for you, I would strongly suggest that you visit All Pet Supplies where they can sell you the same vaccines that your vet can administer.  Because these shots only to puncture the nape of the neck, they are extremely simple to "do-it-yourself".  Plus, they are only about six or seven dollars each compared to a vet's administering fees.  



You'll save some serious money this way.  Don't forget, though, that visiting your vet is still something all pet owners should do from time to time in order to keep a happy, healthy animal going strong for many years.  Hope this helps!

Fleas and Ticks

I love parasitic creatures just as much as the next person, but sometimes they just get out of control.  This particular season, they're awful.  Somehow, though, I feel like I say that every year...  Well, this time they are just an abomination.  September through November is typically the worst time for these little critters, so don't feel ashamed if you haven't completely eradicated them from your household.  I spend quite a bit of cash on flea medication, and Frankie and Ollie seem just as itchy as ever.  Hopefully with some helpful advice, you will be able to battle beside me on the forefront of this pestilence war.

Buzzle.com

Most people know if they have a flea problem, but here are some giveaways for those that are unsure:

• Scratching or generally uncomfortable movement (re-situating themselves constantly)
• Black or brown "dirt" on their fur--even if you don't see actual fleas, their poop is a clear indication that they are still hiding somewhere
• Check their armpits and private area--they will be where there is less hair 

Got 'em?  As long as they aren't jumping on you, the problem may be easily curable.  My highest suggestion is ordering a spot-on treatment such as Frontline.  It may seem expensive, but the three-month supply will be worth it to everyone.  You can usually find is cheapest on PedMeds (and you can buy it bulk which is cheaper still).  I also recommend using more than one flea medicine at a time, but no more than two.  As a supplement, I also use a topical spray once every two weeks.

A little bit about spot-on treatments.  I truly believe they are the best avenue in flea killing, but it's also important to know how it works.  "When you apply [a spot-on treatment], fipronil, the active ingredient, is stored in the oil glands under your pet's skin. It is then distributed continuously to the skin and hair of your pet through the hair follicles"  (Frontline Official Webpage).  Because that it relies on the oil in your pet's skin, you must never bath him two days before or after applying the product.  Use a soap-free shampoo, as this will keep the skin from drying out too much.  It also helps to feed them food high in fatty acids (remember that post?) to keep their coat slick and their skin moisturized.  If you don't follow the directions carefully, it may not work at all.  Here's a great page from Frontline's website that show exactly how to apply it or any other spot-on. 

I'll come out when all of the fleas are gone from the world.

 If your problem is completely out of control, you have to attack from all sides.  If you follow these procedures as often as necessary, there should be fleas no more within a few months:

1. Treat your yard.  I would suggest granules, and sprinkling them all around the edge of your house, your property line and every where in between.  It's also a good idea to do this before it rains so you won't have to water it yourself.
2. Treat your house.  Use a fogger or heavy-duty upholstery spray.  Spray all furniture, carpet and baseboards of your walls.  Make sure you vacuum before and after this.  Wash all of you and your pet's bedding, too.
3. Treat your animals.  Use a spot-on treatment as described above.  Make sure your pet is treated throughout all of this process or they will just jump on him rather than die in the pit of flea-death.

As you may notice, it gets fairly pricey the more situation gets out of control.  Preventative measure will always save you money in the long run, so maybe you will be more understanding the next time the vet tries to talk you into flea medication.